The Cotswolds Diaries: Where to stay, eat & explore

I’ve spent more than two decades exploring the winding country lanes of The Cotswolds, lingering too long in village pubs and discovering footpaths that give way to rolling hills with my dog.

I’ve watched my favourite cafés change hands or close their doors, seen historic buildings lovingly restored or torn down for housing estates. I’ve witnessed once-overlooked villages quietly blossom into destinations in their own right, and watched as communities came together and grew tighter during the pandemic months.

Bampton is very much a village where life still revolves around the local pub and independent businesses are part of the community rather than simply serving it. It is the kind of quaint place you see romanticised in movies, where the locals know each other and the landlady asks you if you want “the usual again.”

Unlike some of the region’s better-known hotspots, Bampton is slower, the welcome warm and the vibe relaxed. It’s also brilliantly placed for exploring neighbouring towns like Burford, Bibury, Witney, Lechlade, and Blenheim Palace, as well as the wider Cotswolds, making it an ideal base for a weekend away.

At the heart of the village sits The Market Tavern. From the outside, it looks exactly as you’d hope a traditional village inn would; a handsome Grade II-listed building with centuries of history woven into its stone walls.

Inside, the hotel has subtly reinvented tradition and embraced modern hospitality, whilst still respecting the heritage of an old village inn. Before reopening, the owners spoke with residents to understand what the community wanted from their pub. The answer was simple: somewhere welcoming, somewhere serving exceptional food and somewhere people could be proud to call theirs.

It is this that forms the basis of everything The Market Tavern does. Despite being modern and sophisticated, they’re not the type of place to jump on what’s hot or follow fads. Rather, they focus on nailing the fundamentals that underpin excellent hospitality. The food is consistently outstanding, the rooms are homely and spacious, the beds are comfortable, and the atmosphere is inviting. Seems simple, right? But in a world of social media and TikTok trends, it’s a rare thing to find.

Bedrooms feel closer to a boutique hotel, with each having its own personality, blending original architectural features with calming colours, elegant furnishings and intentional finishing touches. The Deluxe Suite is generously sized with soft cotton bedding, low lighting and elegant furnishings that invite you to settle in and stay a little longer.

There are the little touches too that often get forgotten in a world where everyone’s trying to cut budgets and work with tight margins. You’ll find complimentary refreshments in your room, premium toiletries and restored interiors that tell of times gone by.

The restaurant has quickly earned a reputation well beyond Bampton, attracting both visitors and locals with its AA Rosette-awarded menu. Seasonal British ingredients form the foundation of every dish, celebrating local producers and classic flavours with a contemporary touch. It’s refined without feeling formal, making it equally suited to a special celebration or an unhurried dinner after a day spent exploring the surrounding countryside.

As someone who’s spent years exploring this region, I’ve learned that the places people remember rarely owe their success to reputation alone. They’re remembered because of how they make you feel. Many hotels in the Cotswolds rely on fancy decorations or breathtaking surroundings, but they feel impersonal. The Market Tavern manages to find a balance between the two.

Staff greet guests with genuine enthusiasm rather than rehearsed politeness read from pre-determined scripts. Locals pop in throughout the day, creating the sense that this is still very much a village pub rather than simply a hotel with a bar attached. When done well, that’s what independent hospitality does best; it creates places with personality.

Beyond The Market Tavern itself, Bampton is well worth exploring. Wander its peaceful streets, admire the honey-coloured cottages and discover the familiar filming locations from Downton Abbey.

From there, it’s a short drive to Burford’s independent shops, the Rose gardens at Blenheim Palace, or to stop for lunch by the river in Lechlade. There’s nothing I enjoy more than venturing deeper into the villages that have made the Cotswolds famous across the world. There’s something to be said when, after all these years, I still haven’t run out of places to discover in the Cotswolds.

That’s one of the reasons I wanted to start this series. Not simply to recommend hotels or restaurants, but to celebrate the places that capture the spirit of the region I’ve been lucky enough to call home for most of my life and remind me why I keep falling in love with the Cotswolds time and time again.

If you’re look to plan an escape to The Cotwolds, get in touch! I’d love to help you plan the perfect trip.

The Market Tavern: https://www.themarkettavernbampton.com/